New transponder arrived! For as small as the frontal area on these things are, it’s really easy to forget how deep they are. My com/nav radio from trig is about the same dimensions.
Also, it came with a wire harness where the wires are completely unlabeled. I emailed aircraft spruce to ask for the install manual, and they replied with the 264 page install manual. I have a bunch of reading to do this weekend.
Apparently the uavionix echoUAT I have is failing. No idea the vintage of this unit, but the echoUAT was first released in 2017, and is now discontinued. I'd believe this is the result of an early now out-of-warranty unit having a defect. Not only has it refused a configuration update to a new tail number (long story there, I knew of this particular issue before buying, but assumed the issue could be fixed by having support reprogram it using JTAG - which didn't work), but it also periodically stops transmitting. The other day, I had an rtl-sdr with appropriate antenna literally feet away from the transponder. Running the transponder + dump1090 on a laptop for ~10 minutes, I never picked up any ads-b packets from my plane. I picked up plenty of packets from other aircraft, so I know the receiver was working. Uavionix support has directly told me that the unit is failing, and I'll believe them on this.
I absolutely did not want to have to start replacing (parts of) the panel this early into ownership. I was planning on replacing the panel at some point (Not with Garmin parts - Garmin is too rich for my blood), but not for at least another year or two. But now I'm wondering if I should do a piecewise upgrade starting now instead of an all-at-once replacement down the line. It seems that (almost?) nobody is making these UAT add-ons anymore, in favor of transponders with built-in ads-b out. I don't mind buying a used echoUAT, but a) I can't find one, and b) given how expensive aviation is, I'd rather not buy something that's discontinued given that long-term support will be questionable. My existing mode-s only transponder works perfectly fine other than the lack of ads-b out. I'd prefer not to replace an otherwise perfectly functioning unit. But if that's going to be the best option support-wise, then maybe I should just get a transponder that'll do ads-b out + a separate ads-b receiver? I've so far only found two companies that make mode s + ads-b out + ads-b in transponders: Garmin and uavionix. And neither of those offerings are appealing to me, to say the least.
Remember that RV-10 I was building? It's still there. Now that I've recovered from my burnout I started working on the elevator again. I was starting to prepare the ribs and other interior parts for primer by roughing up the surface. The ribs are made from two pieces and so I put on a twitch stream and just started working on parts. I got most of them done.
Next steps are to finish the ribs, rough up the interior of the skins, prime everything (except where the foam ribs get bonded), bond the foam ribs, then riveting. Once this elevator is done I get the pleasure of doing it all again.
Installing the electric motor in the nose of the glider.
The motor is not large, but can deliver 23Kw max power briefly during takeoff and initial climb.
It is mounted to a bulkhead with viscoelastic pucks that help absorb some vibration.
The final photo shows the motor in place, but the propellor blades and spinner have not yet been installed. It also shows a cowl flap for motor cooling...which is an unusual feature on a glider.
Installing electronics and batteries for the glider's front engine sustainer system.
https://front-electric-sustainer.com/
First photo - the two connectors for sensing and control of the high-amperage motor controller. They are identical form factor. This means I can connect them to the wrong sockets if I'm inattentive.
Second photo - The motor controller's connectors. When I install this controller in the fuselage belly, I will have limited visibility on this face with its labels. Note that the labels for J1 and J2 are underneath the sockets...hidden from my view. I have painted Roman numerals I and II above the sockets. I can see those markings after installation.
Third photo - This is a high-current system. The fuse at the positive end of the battery pack is rated at 325 amps.
4th - wiring diagram. High-current cables marked with dots.
The glider's transponder (TRIG TT22) has been successfully tested in the garage. Woo hoo!
After configuring the device, I put it through some initial tests.
Even in the garage the GPS antenna can get a position fix.
Applying higher or lower pressure to the static port on the transponder shows a corresponding change on the displayed altitude.
Applying pitot tube air pressure to the squat switch changes the transponder mode from ground to airborne, which is what we want.
Note: I can't test the radio/antenna/transmission capabilities in the garage. And anyway, I need to get the transponder checked at an avionics shop...they have specialty test equipment.
Aircraft and glider transponder codes - FAA gotcha.
I have not yet received my glider registration from the FAA (any day now, lol!), but they have assigned a transponder code for the N-number I have reserved. (see first screenshot)
To configure my avionics, I need to load this transponder code into the device.
FLARM wants it as a 24-bit hexadecimal value. (Each hexadecimal value is 4 bits in binary...so it's going to be a six-character code...but my code is not six characters.)
Hmmmm, that number the FAA gave me just doesn't seem correct.
I then called up a known, long-registered aircraft to compare their transponder code. (2nd screenshot)
Surprise! The transponder code I was given was in octal, but not labeled as such. OK, convert to hexadecimal and now everything makes sense.
Onward!
Installed the new rudder links! It’s so much better. I actually moved my seat back one tab (third image shows the copilot seat, which is all the way back. The pilot’s seat is now at the center position).
Only downside is that my rudder lock is slightly less effective. It’s really easy for it to slide up on the control stick now. So I’ll use the seat belt to hold the stick in place, which wasn’t necessary before (though still a good idea).
The single seat glider I am building is a far cry from a Boeing 787, but there are still some commonalities. I have switches of various types that control different aspects of the glider's operation.
This video shows three switches on my instrument panel. The master switch is entirely unguarded, and a casual bump or incorrect movement can flip the switch. The next two switches have different types of guards. The second switch requires you to pull back on the switch to get over a mechanical bar that prevents accidental flipping. The third switch is entirely covered with a bright red guard that must be first lifted before you can access the switch. Now that I think of it, I may want to add some sort of guard to the (first) master switch because it turns on and off all electrical systems.
After picking up that piece of bar stock earlier this week, I cut it up and made the new rudder links. And this time, with a bunch of holes for different spacing. So that the next owner doesn’t have to share my pain. #avgeek #aviation #ExperimentalAviation #homebuilt
Successful test of the glider radio.
It receives, transmits, and I adjusted microphone sensitivity to better match the mic.
While I was at it, I also measure current draw in standby, receive/audio, and transmit modes. (I need to know my energy budget so that I can choose the correct size battery...especially for long flights.)
Moving around the yard with a handheld radio and using the cell phone to audio record its output...I can't do a proper range test. That will have to wait until I get the glider assembled at the airport and someone can drive to the edges of the airport.
Just ordered my first part from Vans for my rv-9a! This little piece of 0.050" x 0.5" x 20" 4130 bar stock. Why do I need this? I am much shorter than the previous owner. For comfort, I want to move the rudder pedals forward a bit. I'm going to do that by making new, adjustable rudder links (the parts connecting the rudder cables to the rudder pedals).
I'm not making this into a project plane, but there are some upgrades I want to make over time.
I want to build a contaminant box in my rv for things like a GATS jar, an oil rag, and other things I want to keep in the plane, but don’t want to mix with things like a backpack.
Maybe also including a section for actual trash.
Also on the topic of cabin upgrades, I want to add a water bladder hanging off the seatback, with the tube going to the front. I have a water bladder hanging off the back of my recumbent bike, and it’s great. So much better than a water bottle.
Crater lake from 10,000 feet!
I bought a plane. An RV-9A. I'm really excited to have this. Flew it home today with the seller/former owner. Did a few touch and goes at KEUG before he disembarked for his return flight. Then I soloed to my home airport. Very long day today. I'm so tired right now.
I'm really looking forward to all of the flying I'll get to do this summer. But first, I need to do a bunch of pattern work.
I'm still working on my Cozy, don't worry. No plans to stop working on that.
The glider fuselage has been wet sanded.
It's time to for final buffing.
I did some experimenting this morning to get a feel for process and especially process control.
I had two different polishing pads. Would they give different finish quality?
Would a grid of black Sharpie help me keep track of buffing progress?
(Don't worry about the Sharpie. It doesn't stain the polyurethane paint. I can wipe it away with a solvent like acetone.)
Either polishing pad gives similar results, and buffing until the Sharpie grid is gone appears to be a workable control technique.
Water beading on the buffed surface is another indication of progress.
On areas with complex, and especially concave curvature, I'll buff by hand.
I'm not trying to do a fantastic job on the fuselage, but I'll gain experience before I do the critical stuff: the wings.
Yesterday evening was my EAA Chapter's build night for our Zenith kit. Some of us went about drilling the final holes for the wing ribs and riveting them while the other members were in the process of preparing the rear spar for the wing. While we were working a very heavy rain storm hit (just in time to soak the grass runway that just dried out).
My glider needs a tug that can pull it from the landing spot to the transport trailer or hangar.
That distance may be over a mile at larger airfields.
Glider clubs often use electric golf carts, but those are expensive and way too big for the task. I need a rig that can easily be put in the bed of my truck.
An electric scooter?
Some of them have larger tires, more powerful motors, a larger payload capacity.
Today I tested this model:
https://www.isinwheel.com/products/isinwheel-hyper-x-700w-electric-scooter-with-seat
I measured the static pull...about 40 pounds of force.
That is plenty for pulling a 600 pound glider when you consider that rolling friction is about 1/50th of a vehicle's weight. That comes to 12 pounds.
I don't need high speed. You tow at a fast walk or slow jog.
I don't need dozens of miles of range.
And it's fun to ride.
Need more power for a heavy two-seat glider?
https://www.isinwheel.com/products/isinwheel-h7-pro-1200w-high-end-commuting-electric-scooter-with-seat
#avgeek #aviation #ElectricAircraft #ExperimentalAviation #homebuilt
#Glider #DIY #Scooter #eScooter #EV #ElectricScooter
I needed to mix a small bottle of nail polish to which I had added some acetone in order to thin the paint somewhat. This was a perfect job for my large paint shaker.
I needed thinner paint for some touch-up work at the exhaust port on the glider's turtle deck.
See next two comments to this post....
The glider's horizontal stabilizer's paint needs scraping to remove runs and drips.
This part has a span of eight feet (2.44 meters). And I need to work on both sides.
Fortunately, the surface is convex, or flat in various locations...but it's happily not concave.
Setting up the work lights to give me specular reflections makes it easy to see and then work on the drips and runs.
I'm also learning that how I sharpen/sand the razor's edge (symmetric? asymmetric?), how I hold it (rake angle)...can make a big difference in how efficiently and effectively I can scrape away the high spots.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rake_angle
The pile of shaved paint next to the razor was produced with one gentle pass...once I started figuring out sharpening geometry and rake angle. Before that, my progress was slow and required much more effort.
#avgeek #aviation #ElectricAircraft #ExperimentalAviation #homebuilt
#Glider #DIY #Paint #Sand #Buff #Polish @jivens
The glider winglets have been sanded and buffed/polished...well enough.
I did not use the polishing machine. These are small parts and somewhat fragile, so I buffed by hand.
The winglets have electrical connections (spring loaded car door jamb connectors, lol!) and a molded receptacle for these nav/position/strobe lights:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/el/winglights/aveopowerburst.php
The 2nd and 3rd photos show a progression from ugly runs and drips...to a scraped surface that is almost ready for sanding.
#avgeek #aviation #ElectricAircraft #ExperimentalAviation #homebuilt
#Glider #DIY #Paint #Sand #Buff #Polish #winglets
